![]() ![]() The cost to develop a proto-type and mold for a complete urethane body kit is about 12 times that of a fiberglass body kit. Urethane body kits are more expensive than fiberglass ones because they cost a whole lot more to make. ![]() Poly-urethane body kits - Poly-urethane (also referred to as simply "urethane") is a techinical word that basically means "rubber". An example of this is the Duraflex brand of body kits, which is probably the most popular-selling line of body kits we offer. Extra note: some companies have introduced high-end fiberglass body kits that use a specialty flex resin that gives bodykit-buyers the best of both worlds: durabilty and affordabilty. Besides that, they're the most affordable type of body kit available. That being said, paint adheres really well to fiberglass, and fiberglass won't warp even in the most extreme of weather conditions. Also, most fiberglass body kits won't withstand a fender-bender as well as, for example, poly-urethane body kits. Fiberglass body kits are almost all made by hand, and because of that they don't have the same precision of fitment and finish as, say, your machine-made CAD-designed factory bumpers do. The main reason is because they're the most cost-effective to manufacture. Take a look:įiberglass body kits - These are the most prevalent body kits by far. Question: What's the difference between them?Īnswer: Each has its pros and cons. Question: What are Acura Integra body kits made of?Īnswer: Most body kits are either made of fiberglass, poly-urethane, or ABS plastic. Read this to get more informed about Acura Integra body kits: I'll get to those next month.We get asked these questions all the time. I didn't wire up the fog lights because I didn't have a relay handy. Because I was fitting an HID kit meant that I just had to wire up the high beams. You'll need to cut USDM headlight plugs and connect them to the rectangular plug-luckily, the wire colors match. The JDM light has a large rectangular plug and the USDM has two plugs for the high and low beams. The small issue of wiring the lights is really all that's left. All that's left is to secure both fenders, the hood and the bumper with the rebar behind it. You'll also have to cut a small portion of the side of the frame sheet metal, otherwise the JDM lights won't fit. Then take it all off and weld the support into place. If not, adjust the support until everything looks even. Before you go welding everything up, use some clamps to hold the JDM support in place and mock the front end up to see if all the gaps line up. We overlapped the JDM support onto the USDM one to ensure proper and precise fitment. With all that in mind, it was a no-brainer to cut only the portion that we needed to replace.Īs the pictures show, measure carefully, take your time and don't press too hard when drilling out the rivets as the metal tends to deflect quite a bit. The issue isn't the cutting itself but the spot welds that hold the support in need to be drilled out and that will take forever if you plan to cut it all out. ![]() ![]() Because it's thin sheetmetal, the support doesn't offer much structural rigidity and to cut it out completely would take a fair bit more time than to cut half of it out. You can cut the entire rad support out or cut a portion of it out. After you remove all of the USDM front end, including the bumper support, you'll have to cut the rad support off and use the JDM one because the headlight brackets and hood latch are in different locations. I'll skip the step-by-step process and quickly cover some of the more critical elements of the conversion since really all you're doing is swapping some sheetmetal over. As long as you measure twice and cut once, you'll be able to pull this off at home. Don't be intimidated, though-it's not as hard as it may look. This swap may scare some people because it requires cutting off part of the front rad support and welding on the JDM one. ![]()
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